STL290: Lightning round with Vic and Ben

Calling all woodworking enthusiasts! Don’t miss the Texas Woodworking Festival in Austin, Texas on August 26th and 27th. The event is a unique blend of industry trade fairs, tool sales, educational seminars and woodworking themed festivals.

Meet and connect with fellow woodworkers, lumberyards, woodworking organizations, content creators, furniture makers and tool makers. Enjoy live music, delicious food and cold beer as you explore the latest woodworking tools, trends and techniques.

GET YOUR TICKETS TODAY Texas Woodworking Festival.com Use the code “shoptalklive” and get 10% off your purchase.

question 1:
From Ren:
I have a question about rust and tools…I use jojoba oil for planes and chisels, but there are many other steel surfaces…table saw tops, bandsaw top clamps, etc. We are diligent about maintenance. I live in Washington state on the wet side of the Cascade Mountains. My shop is in an unheated garage. I was wondering – would planes, chisels, etc. work well in wall cabinets with closed doors?

Question 2:
From Ian:
Anyone using angled zero clearance inserts, such as 30° or 45°? Any thoughts on how to properly adjust the critical blade rise to create a 30° or 45° insert? Any suggestions or recommendations? How would you suggest a safer way to make the inserts? Or is it worth doing?

	Safely insert zero-clearance inserts Here’s how to safely cut blade slots with your new zero-clearance table saw insert.
	Clearance for mounting table saw throat plate If you install an empty insert into the table saw blade opening and lift the spinning blade out of it (hold the insert down in the process), it creates a zero clearance slot that keeps debris out of the bottom. of cut.

Question 3:
From Scott:
Every time I try to measure the thickness of the board, or take the cup out of the board, it seems that one end is thicker than the other. That’s pretty much the end where I start the plane, and it’s narrower.

Question 4:
From Jim:
I am building a small cabinet. It’s about 2′ x 2′ x 2′ 3/4″ plywood with a closed back, also plywood. I plan to cover the outside with shop-made veneer.Do I need balance veneer on the inside, or is the inherent stiffness of the plywood and box shape too great to counteract the changing tension of the shop-made veneer? Enough?

Question 5:
From Tony:
I am a woodworking teacher in Australia and have been listening to podcasts for many years. What process do you recommend for attaching hinges to boxes and cabinets? This is something I often spend time trying to get right.I was wondering if you have any great tips or advice to make the process easier.

Question 6:
From Buzz:
It is common practice to place shiplap boards in the back of a cabinet, typically with a 0.125 inch gap between boards and a 0.25 inch overlap/underlap. How do you calculate the final width of the board so that it fills the space exactly while maintaining similar specs to those above?

Question 7:
From Ken:
What do you think of sophisticated electronics like brushless DC motor drives in the store?

Question 8:
From Ken:
I’ve seen the new FWW shop and it looks great!! I had one question about the podcast. I noticed you guys are using hollow chisels. I’m curious if you’ve considered a punt router instead of a maltiser. I know Mike likes square holes in most of his work, but so do I. However, the Pantlouter costs about the same as the Maltizer, and I’d love to hear your opinion on which one is more versatile for home shops. It turns out that the punt router wins when it comes to complex angles.

Every two weeks, the Fine Woodworking staff team answers reader questions on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking’s bi-weekly podcast. For woodworking questions, [email protected] Under consideration for regular broadcasting! Our survival depends on the support of our listeners. If you enjoyed the show, please leave us a 5 star rating and a nice comment. iTunes page.